A piece of sheet Fio. 1.22a. Jig for boring. metal 5 in. X 8 ш or 10 in. is folded in the middle and the edges spread apart in a V. A few drops of solder may be required to prevent the leaves from spreading apart. After the work to be bored is clamped in the box, the saw guide is set at the desired angle and the tin jig slipped into the slot in the guide. After the bit has Courtesy of Stanley Tools Fig. 1.226. Bit gage countersinks and dowel sharpeners. been started, the V groove is pushed down over the bit as a guide, as in A of Figure 1.22. В shows a bit gage, two countersinks, and a dowel sharpener. Where a series of holes of uniform depth is desired, as in mortising, a stop called a bit gage can be clamped to the bit to prevent it from penetrating beyond CABINETMAKING the desired depth, or a stop can be improvised from a length of old garden 1 slipped over the bit, or from two pieces of wood bolted together, or even f a piece of paper. It may be desirable, particularly when boring into thin mate to cut a flatbottomed hole. This calls for a Forstner bit, which has its cut edges on the circumference of its end. Having no center point, it must be sta by its circumference, unless an ordinary auger bit of the same diameter car used first as a guide. Tapered holes can be made by boring with a bit whose diameter is equa that of the small end of the hole, then enlarging the hole with a tapered bit. r. is not the same as counterboring, which means that for long screws the first f equal in diameter to the root (groove) of the screw, is bored the full length, then a larger hole is bored for the smooth, larger shank of the screw. Com sinking for concealing or leveling off a screwhead is accomplished by the usi rose bit or reamer. Dowels. Usually machined from birch, beech, or maple, doweling rod; pins come in lengths up to 6 ft., with diameters varying from % in. to i in, 'ncreases oi Y±q in. A dowel joint is in reality the reinforcement of other joi including the simple butt joint-the "granny knot" of wood joinery. Str doweled joints depend upon carefully fitted holes, accurately aligned and sqi ith adjoining surfaces. Dowel ends are habitually chamfered to prevent tea nd to provide a pocket for the glue (A, Figure 1.23) and are cut %6 in. shor 2 2 . allow for a glue pocket. A saw cut along the length of the dowel will provide an escape for excess glue. Dowels with a spiral channel are available commercially for the same purpose (see B). A doweling jig is shown Figure 1.23 C. The woodworker who anticipates considerable dowel jointing will save himself much time and trouble by providing himself with a set of dowel plugs. These are short lengths of each of the various sized dowels, equipped with marking nails that have been sharpened as markers after their heads have been filed off. The nails can be centered by drilling a piece of thick waste the size of a short dowel, which is then tapped into the hole.