A still simpler method of construction is illustrated in detail C, Figure 2.1, demonstrating the use of corrugated fasteners to hold the butt joints tight. With the joint clamped together two of these sharpedged fasteners are hammered down flush with the faces of the two members. Scotch fasteners (detail D) have the same effect, but will project above the surface of the joint somewhat, even in soft wood. Neither of these time savers will afford the rigidity of bracing blocks. Accurately mitered joints (detail E) can be fastened with nails, corrugated fasteners, or dowels. Lap joints are pictured in detail F. They can be glued and nailed, pegged, or screwed tightly in place. For the woodworker who enjoys doweling, the jointing of the interior as well as the outer rails to their stile presents an excellent opportunity for practice. The dowels should be small enough in diameter to permit the use of two at each joint in order to prevent twist, as shown at G. An open mortise and tenon (detail H) could be used effectively at the corners, held together firmly with glue and countersunk screws or dowels. Unless the wood is very soft, however, to attempt closed mortise and tenon joints (detail J) for the interior rails might invite the disaster of splitting. No matter what joints are employed, it is essential to the success of the project that each joint shall be true and that the uprights remain parallel, free from twist or wind. With the frame completed, a piece of wrapping paper iS in. wide and 70 in. long is now cut and laid on the bench or floor. Available glue or paperhanger s paste is applied to one side of the uprights and stiles: then the frame is presse; Fig. 2.1. INDOOR FURNITURE CONSTRUCTION down upon the paper, a iin. lap being allowed on all edges. A tab (deta Figure 2.2) is cut in the paper at each corner, glue is spread along the e: lap, and the paper is then folded up along the edge of the frame and tacke place at wide intervals. Tab D Fig. 2.2. A second sheet of paper is fastened to the other side in like manner, aft which procedure both sides are lightly moistened with water by means of a sponj or a cloth. This will tighten the paper smoothly when it dries; too much wat< may cause if to split. The frame is now ready for the application of the wal paper, which should be chosen with care. In general, it will be found that a desig that features fairly large figures will prove more pleasing than a small patten Furthermore, for ease in cleaning, it will prove desirable to apply a thin coat с clear shellac to the wallpaper, which, however, tends to darken its tone. Since standard wallpaper is 18 in. wide, it can be lapped over the edges 0 the frame in the 'same manner as was employed in attaching the wrapping paper hile it is being worked out smoothly with a soft, clean cloth it will be noticec that the wrappingpaper liner will tend to loosen and wrinkle. As the paste dries however, it will tighten as before.