n the wallpaper on both sides has dried, the edges can be trimmed So . and painted a contrasting or matching color. A more secure method is to glue on upholsterers' gimp, fastening it with matching tacks at 3in. intervals. Doubleacting hinges are mortised into the edges of the frames. The panels should be separated by small wedges when the hinges are being fitted into the gains, with due allowance for the thickness of the covering material and tacks, as shown in Figure 2.2 В. The bottom edge of the frame when not fastened with upholsterers' tacks can be raised from the floor by inserting dome casters at both corners. Leatherette Screens. In place of the wrappingpaper and wallpaper covering, leatherette can be used if preferred, by tacking down the first side with flatheaded carpet tacks, overlapping it with the second side, which has been cut long and wide enough to double it under and secure it with upholsterers' tacks, or gimp and tacks. This type of covering must be stretched tight in much the same manner as screen wire when applied to an inflexible frame. The ends are first tacked as tightly as possible, then the sides. Wallboard Screens. For a stronger screen, beaverboard, smooth wallboard, or plywood panels can be cut to fit the outside measurements of the frames and glued in place, with a few invisible brads inserted for added security. The edges are trimmed flush all around, sanded, and painted. The faces of the panels can be painted, stenciled, decorated with decalcomanias, glued labels, photographs, shells, or wallpaper. Oilcloth and Chintz Screens. In kitchens, bathrooms, or nurseries it may be more desirable to use an easily cleaned oilcloth of harmonizing design and colors. Glazed chintzes, which match a room's draperies, slipcovers, or pillows are exceptionally effective, and for durability may be first lined with a tightly stretched frame covering of unbleached muslin or other suitable material. Utility Screens. When space is at a premium and it is desired to conceal an extemporized kitchenette or washstand, light plywood strips supporting hooks can be attached to the rear of the screen, or plate and utensil brackets of doweling can be screwed to the frames as suggested in detail D, Figure 2.2. In the latter case it will be advantageous to stagger the rails to prevent constant wear and tear to the outer surface of the screen's panels. Rails may be in pairs at such points, or wider lumber can be used. Hooks and eyes, shown in detail C, Figure 2.2, will hold such screens firmly open. At the cost of a little additional effort, the horizontal line at the top of the screen can be softened by the addition of a curved member along the top edge of the center (or all) sections as illustrated in Figure 2.3. If not too deep, these curved portions may consist of separate pieces sawed out with a compass saw, jigsaw, or band saw and attached by means of 10penny nails or dowels, as in detail A, Figure 2.3.