For additional security the moldings are bradded together at tops bottoms. It is well to brad the first and last pair at intervals throughout t lengths. The resulting screen can be painted to match the other furniture, or the i of the room. If desired, a design can be painted on either or both sides, like1 o::e side can be painted in one color and the other in another color. picture frames With the variety of moldings available at most lumber yards it requires с a bit of care on the part of the home craftsman to enable him to construct own picture frames. In fact, a large amount of the accuracy required in cutting and fitting the sometimes tricky miter joint can be eliminated by using the combination miter board and clamping jig shown in Figure 2.6. Miter Board and Clamp. The dimensions of the jig will of course depend upon the sizes of the frames to be constructed. To accommodate an averagesized picture with mat, measuring approximately 1032 in. x 14% in., a piece of heavy plywood or gluedup stock 21 in. x 25 in. will suffice. Outer cleats of il2 in. to 2 in. hardwood are screwed around the four sides as shown in the diagram. At one corner, oak strips are screwed down to form the miter board. These strips must be cut and fastened accurately and square. Wedges ; inserted when the miters are cut, and again for clamping the four mitered corni after gluing. Scratch Stock. Simple frames can beveled or rounded with a hand plai Beading and other designs can be goug out of closegrained hardwood with homemade scratch stock, shown in Figu 2.7. This tool must be "made to orde for the size of the molding it is to shap It consists of two hardwood bloc notched to the width and thickness of t molding, between which is clamped Fig. 2.6. ЗатBlade Ground To Pattern 54 . piece of old saw blade, which has been filed or ground into the desired shape. The blade is held tightly by six bolts with wing nuts, and pushed away from the operation against the clamped molding. Commencing with a shallow cut, the blade is lowered successively to increase the "bite." Sanding is required for a smooth finish. If the molding is to be shaped, it is preferable first to cut the rabbet for the glass in the back. Should the molding be too thin to take a rabbet, thin strips can be glued and bradded Y\ in. to Y& in. from the inside edges to form ledges. In cutting the miters in the miter block the main requirements are tight wedging and accurate measurements. If the opposite sides of a frame are not exactly equal in length, the corners will never come out square. To allow for the miter, in measuring the length of a molding, twice its width must be added (minus the rabbet) to the overall picture or glass size on that side. If a faulty miter is cut, it can be repaired by clamping it tightly at a known right angle and making one or more saw kerfs through the joint to even up both sides. As the miters are cut and "dryfitted," it is well to number them in pencil, after the cut surfaces are sanded.