To finish off, braiding or well cord of the proper color is stitched 3 in. down from the top, around all four sides The hardwood surfaced plywood facings for the legs are mitered at all foui corners and can now be glued in place. This veneer can be in. thick if facilities exist for accurate bevelmitering. Whether glides of the nonskld caster cup type, previously described, are to be applied to the feet depends on the amount of usage to which the stools will be subjected. The construction of innerspring cushions will be described in Chapter 7. Back cushions are of identical construction, minus the springs. II6 . beds The successful construction of takedown beds, bunks, and cots depends, to a great degree, upon the proper installation of the fastenings that tie the rails to their posts. Since these are limited in practice to two general types, it will prove advantageous to study their characteristics before proceeding to their installation. Bedrail Fasteners. The commonest type of bedrail fastener consists of metal hooks in pairs, cut from a single piece, as shown in A and B, Figure 2.54. They can also be purchased with single hooks for narrow rails, or can be cut or filed from Vw'm. sheet iron, as in A. In cutting out a set of bed hooks, much of the work can be accomplished by drilling a series of holes and filing the resulting roughedged pieces to the finished size. 12 In. Dowels Fig. 2.54. Bedrail fasteners. The use of one blade of a dado saw will simplify grooving the rails and posts. The grooves in the bedrails should be deep enough to support the fasteners or hooks for at least one half their length. The saw kerfs should not run through the top of the rail, the cut being limited to the end and bottom edge only. The holes for the pegs can be concealed by drilling slightly undersized holes from inside, stopping before the drill breaks the outer surface of the rail. The metal pegs can then be driven in to secure the fasteners, as indicated in C. One rail end fitted with its hooks can be used as a templet for marking the INDOOR FURNITURE CONSTRUCTION i in locations on the outside of its post (detail D). The holes for the pins shot be so centered that the hooks will exert a camming action against them, drawi the rail ends tight when the rail is still approximately in. above level. Drivii he rail down to its final position will tighten it against the post, forming a rig joint. The location of the pins having been marked, the depth of the saw kerf can 1 measured, and corresponding start and stop blocks set on the circular saw. Tl pins are later driven from the inside, as was done on the bedrail. An older form of fastener is by means of a bolt with a notched nut, as show in E of Figure 2.54. Short in. dowels are glued into the rail and holes drille to receive them in the post. A pilot hole is drilled in the post for a headless hanc rail bolt, with a hole opposite it in the end of the rail, to a depth of from 23 ir A large hole is now bored through the thickness of the rail to accommodate th notched nut at the end of the bolt.