% % 1 iYi 1% 2 2Y2 3 3% 4 (Thickness) Hardwood, surfaced (S2S) (Thickness) %в Vie 7Ae 9 1У16 1% 2% 2% 3% 3% Standard lengths of softwood range from 6 ft. to 18 ft., usually by intervals of 2 ft. Standard lengths of hardwood range from 4 ft. to 16 ft., by intervals of 1 ft. Hardwood lumber is cut in random widths of 3 in. and up. woodworking operations No matter what kind of wood has been selected, the amateur woodworker must apply a knowledge of and a degree of proficiency in certain basic carpentry operations in order to convert the raw material into his dream project. None of these operations is too difficult for the average person to master, and each is usually a prerequisite to another in achieving the desired result. Marking. Accurate marking is a basic requirement for good cabinet work. A pencil held along the edge of a try square will satisfy the necessities of ordinary carpentry, but for laying out joints in furniture making, a marking gauge with a sharp spur or scribing point will afford more accurate results. After the proper width is set off on the measuring shaft, the block is clamped tight and held squarely against the guiding edge, with the scriber slanted as shown in Figure 1.5. To prevent the point from digging in and following the grain, only a light pressure should be employed, the scribing operation being repeated if the first line is too delicate. For fine, small work Fig. 1.5. Use of marking gage. such as tenons, dovetails, and so on, all four sides can be CABINETMAKING marked or squared to good advantage. To accomplish this accurately, th and bottom are marked with the aid of a try square, before the sides are j( A sharp point will insure accurate marking; for delicate work some тес! substitute a phonograph needle. Sawing. In sawing along marked lines it is necessary to remember tha saw cut, or kerf, has a width of its own, approximately %6 of an inch. Ther sawing the kerf on the wrong side of the scribed line will result in a change с dimensions in the completed work. Sometimes the kerf will be on the outsi the line, as in the case of a tenon; with a mortise, the saw cut must be placi the inside of the scoring. If too much wood remains after sawing, it can be p or pared off; too little is hard to replace. The rule is, then, always saw on the \ side of a line. As for the operation of sawing itself, some mechanics prefer to start the with a knife cut to insure a smooth entrance. Although sawing at a 450 an: considered easiest, shallow, horizontal sawing must be resorted to when te mortises, dovetails, and other joints are to be cut at right angles to another The line of vision should be directly above the saw cut at all times, with onl top edge of the saw blade visible. Sawing miters is simplified by the use of commercial metal miter boxes, \ can be set at any desired angle. Everyone is familiar with the boxtype : boxes assembled by home mechanics from scrap hardwood lumber.